How the tests work on a real production run
Pull at least six bottles from a proper production run, two from the start, two from the middle, two from the end of the shift. Print conditions drift as the floor warms up or lamps age. Let bottles stand for 24 hours after printing, as adhesion keeps improving off the lamp, especially on glass with primer. Testing too soon gives harsh results, but waiting a week can hide problems you want to solve now.
Start with the tape test. Score a small grid right through the print to the substrate using a cross-hatch cutter. Press standard tape firmly over the grid, wait a minute, then rip it off quickly at a sharp angle. Check for flakes or lifted squares under good light. Clean squares with nothing on the tape mean good adhesion. Small flakes at the cut edges are usually fine for promo runs, note it in your cure log. Whole squares lifting means you must check your primer, lamp output or bottle surface treatment before the next shift.
Next, run rub and chill tests. Rub an area with a standard cloth using elbow grease, ten firm strokes is enough. For the chill test, dunk the bottle in an ice bucket, then move it to a fridge for at least half an hour. Condensation and temperature swings expose weak points. If you see print lifting, address it before the next batch. These steps catch issues that pop up when bottles leave Gauteng for the coast or sit in a cold trailer overnight.